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NOTE: DUE TO THE CATASTROPHIC EARTHQUAKES IN 2005, EOS GROUP TRIPS HAVE BEEN CANCELLED. Since that time, escalation in the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq have
made it impossible to conduct this tour. We pray for
an end to all war and peace for the world.
September 5-30 - The Blonde in the Bazaar
Join award winning travel writer Jill Worrall on a 25 day excursion of the Unknown Land of Pakistan retracing the journey of the Blonde in the Bazaar.
If you enjoyed Jill’s book A Blonde in the Bazaar, now is the time to experience the fascinating country of Pakistan for yourself in September 2005. This tour includes many of the destinations featured in her book. You will be travelling with Linda, Jill, and Mujahid Ali Khan, the local ‘star’ of the book
Itinerary highlights:
- Explore Lahore, one of the sub-continent’s great Mughal cities.
- Awe-inspiring flight across the Karakorams with views of some of the world’s great peaks (weather dependent).
- Homestay in a picturesque Hunza village, high in the mountains
- Journey to the top of the Khunjerab Pass between Pakistan and China, the highest sealed pass in the world at 4733m.
- Drive down one of the engineering marvels of the 20 th Century, the Karakoram Highway.
- Visit exotic Peshawar in the heart of the historic North West Frontier Province.
- Trace the steps of the great conquerors through the rugged Khyber Pass.
- Sail down the Indus River and view one of the world’s rarest dolphins.
- Sway into the desert by camels to the romantic Derawar Fort.
Day 1, September 8 Depart US
Day 2, September 9 Arrive in Lahore where we will be welcomed at the airport by the local guidea nd excorted to our hotel to meet Jill Worrall and the New Zealand group.
Day 3, September 10 Lahore
Today we will explore Lahore, the cultural, intellectual and artistic capital of Pakistan. Lahore is an intriguing mix of incredible Mughal Empire monuments to rather poignant reminders of the time of the British Raj. Lahore has been the capital of the strategically important Punjab for region for nearly 1000 years. It was at the height of its powers during the reign of the Mughal rulers Akgbar, Jehangir and Shah Jahan.
On our sightseeing programme for today is the Badshahi Mosque. This was built by Moghul emperor Aurangzeb and was completed in 1674. It’s one of the world’s largest mosques – its central courtyard can hold up to 100,000 people. This red sandstone and marble complex is a tranquil place to explore and also is a good place to strike up conversations with the locals.
Beside the mosque is the Lahore fort, built by Mughal emperor Akbar in 1566. Although it’s called a fort, it contains palaces, audience halls and gardens. It’s still under restoration but is a fascinating place to explore. One of my favourite buildings is the tiny Naulakha, a marble pavilion set with petra dura work (the same stone inlay work used on the Taj Mahal).
We’re also going to plunge into the bazaars of the old walled city beside the fort. I know some of these streets rather well having spent hours here shooting cover shots for my book! Fingers crossed we might even see the camel that starred in the final choice for the front! The bazaar is a fascinating jumble of barbers, clothing stalls, spice sellers, carpet salesmen and much more. While we’re in here, we’ll stop at the beautiful Wazir Khan mosque that has especially beautiful examples of decorative tile work.
In the late afternoon we’ll visit the Shalimar Gardens – these are the last surviving Mughal garden in the city and were created by Shah Jahan. The garden features dozens of fountains and marble pavilions and some magnificent mango trees. Although it has something of the feeling of faded glory about it these days it’s also a fun place to watch the locals relaxing, playing with their children and in some cases indulging in a little discrete talent spotting!
Block Printers in the Lahore Suq 1993 EOS
Day 4, September 11 Lahore to Islamabad
Today we drive to Pakistan’s modern capital city Islamabad. Part of our journey will be along the historic Grand Trunk Road. Islamabad is right beside the much older city of Rawalpindi so we’ll be sightseeing in both cities later in the afternoon.
The construction of Islamabad began in 1961 – intriguingly its design was the work of a Greek architect-planner Konstantinos Doxiades. It’s built on a series of grids, nestled at the base of the foothills of the Himalayas.
We’ll be visiting the Lok Virsa Museum which is an excellent ethnographic museum including superb embroidered costumes, jewellery and woodcarvings from many of Pakistan’s distinct ethnic groups. There’s a good viewpoint nearby where we’ll have great views of Islamabad, including the Shah Faisal mosque (the building cost about $US50m and most of this was paid for by King Faisal of Saudi Arabia. In Rawalpindi we hope to visit the Rajah Bazaar, one of the country’s most colourful.
Day 5, September 12 Islamabad to Gilgit
It is a very early start today because we hope to fly to Gilgit but to optimise the chances of the two-only flights a day the flights are scheduled early to make the best of calm conditions. If we do get to fly be prepared for one of the most stunning scenic flights you’ll experience anywhere. If we don't fly we'll drive up the incredible Karakorum Highway which links Pakistan and China. We’ll be flying across the last mountains in the Himalayan chain and into the Karakorams. On a very clear day there could be glimpses of the world’s second highest peak, K2 but we should definitely see the world’s eighth highest mountain Nanga Parbat.
After our arrival in Gilgit we’ll visit the Kargah Buddha – our first experience of the Buddhist heritage of the Hunza region. This carved standing Buddha may date back to the 7 th century. We’ll also check out an example of remarkable engineering – one of the local suspensions bridges. There should also be time to walk through Gilgit’s pulsating bazaar. Here it will become obvious just how much trade there now is between Pakistan and China – you’ll be amazed by the range of goods on sale. Look out for good bargains in silk here.
Day 6, September 13: Gilgit to Karimabad
Today we’ll drive through one of the most spectacular sections of the Karakoram Highway following the Hunza River to Karimabad. There’s breathtaking mountain scenery all around us, including close-up views of 7790m Rakaposhi. By September, the poplars and orchards of apples and apricots could be starting to gain their autumn colours too. This is a region of huge geological interest because of the tremendous upheavals that have taken place here because of tectonic plate clashes. We’ll be telling you more about this as we travel! Tonight we stay at Karimabad, one of my favourite places in the Hunza. Karimabad is also known as Baltit, the Hunza’s ancient capital. If the weather is clear the mountain scenery here is incomparable. Rearing up behind the town is the sheer black pinnacle, the 6000m Lady Finger and 7388m Ultar II until recently one of the world’s highest unclimbed peaks.
Day 7, September 14 Karimabad
A whole day to enjoy this fabulous spot. We’ll be visiting the historic Altit and Baltit Forts, former homes of this ancient kingdom’s rulers (known as mirs). The Baltit fort has been beautifully restored (winning an international award in the process) and work has now begun on the Altit fort (we won’t know until nearer the time if work will be finished on this fort, so it may not be open to the public). There will also be time to explore Karimabad’s excellent array of shops that feature weaving, embroidery, jewellery and a truly magnificent array of crystals and other geological treasures.
There will be an opportunity to walk along the picturesque irrigation channels that bring precious water from the glaciers to the local orchards, and maybe climb up towards the Ultar Glacier for even more superb views of the valley and mountains.
Day 8, September 15 Karimabad to Ghulken
Today you’ll drag me kicking and screaming from the Karimabad bazaar so we can continue our journey into the upper Hunza valley. We’ll drive past orchards, tiny villages even the odd polo ground as we make our way towards Ghulken for our homestay. Few overseas tourists come to this village nestled in a basis at the foot of some of the most rugged peaks in the world. I attended a wedding here and fell in love with the setting but most of all the villagers. We’ll be staying in local homes here so you’ll have a unique chance to experience life in the mountains and learn about the distinctive style of home-building and family life.
Day 9, September 16 Ghulken to Passu
It’s a very short drive today further up the Karakoram Highway to Mujahid’s village of Passu. This village is in an awesome location, right beside the mighty Passu Glacier and with one of the most awe-inspiring backdrops of mountains you’ll see anywhere. The Cathedral Peaks are so steep it’s almost impossible for snow to stick to them. On our arrival at our hotel you have the option of simply staying put and absorbing the setting, or taking a short stroll nearby, or for the more energetic there’s a walk up to the Passu Glacier for an even more superb view of your surroundings. After lunch at the hotel we’ll visit one of the area’s unique suspension bridges. These make New Zealand swing bridges look like the Golden Gate Bridge!
Day 10, September 17 Day trip to Khunjerab Pass
Today we make our day trip to the top of the world, well at least to the highest sealed road border crossing in the world at 4733m. We’ll pass through narrow canyons, snaking our way up higher into the Khunjerab National Park until finally we emerge in the surprisingly open and spectacularly barren Khunjerab Pass that links Pakistan with China. You’ll probably be able to step foot into China and definitely be able to drink in the scenery of glaciers, mountain peaks and herds of yaks. There is a good chance of seeing the rare ibex here but we will have to be extremely lucky to catch sight of the Marco Polo sheep which do live in this area but are extremely elusive.
Day 11, September 18 Passu to Chilas
Today we start making our way back down the Karakoram Highway. It will be a long drive today but never boring. The scenery is magnificent every way you turn and if the weather is kind to us there should be excellent views of Rakaposhi and other great peaks. We’ll probably stop for a picnic lunch along the way and spend the night at Chilas. At Chilas we may be able to stop to see the ancient petroglyphs that have been hewn into the rocks. Petroglyphs are a form of early graffiti, some dating back to the first century AD and include Buddhist symbols, hunting stories and drawings of animals.
Petroglyphs at Chilas EOS 1987
Day 12, September 19 Chilas to Besham.
It’s our final full day on the Karakoram Highway as we drive down to Besham. We’ll be following the Indus River – one of the world’s great rivers and one we’ll be encountering more closely in a few days once it meets the plains! This region is dominated by Nanga Parbat, the Killer Mountain (so named because it has proved incredibly difficult to climb safely).
Day 13, September 20 Besham to Peshawar
Today we’ll climb out of Besham and bid temporarily farewell to the Indus River as we cross the Shangla Pass 2134m into the valley of Swat. We’ll witness a huge transformation in the landscape, from the barren grandeur of the Indus Valley to the lush green almost idyllic pastoral scenes in Swat. We’ll continue south here and cross over the Malakand Pass and make our way to Peshawar, the legendary capital of the North West Frontier Province. In the evening we’ll visit some of the most fascinating bazaars in Pakistan – the Kissa Khawani (street of storytellers), the Kasera bazaar (the street of gold) and the Mahabat Khan Mosque. This beautifully tiled mosque is the city’s finest.
 
ANTIQUE DEALER PESHAWAR 1987 EOS THE WEAVER 1985 EOS
Day 14, September 21 Peshawar
Today we’ll spend a full day in the Peshawar area, visiting the city museum with its comprehensive of Gandharan art (Gandhara is the ancient name for the Peshawar Plain and is characterised by Greco-Buddhist art) and other treasures. Then we hope to travel up the legendary Khyber Pass in the footsteps of armies, vanquished and conquering, explorers, spies and smugglers. We may be allowed to visit the Michni Post where we may have a view of the Pakistani-Afghan border. We’ll travel past fortified homes, forts on the hill and the insignia of British regiments that once served here.
Day 15, September 22 Peshawar to Kalabagh
Today we’ll be heading south towards the Indus River crossing the Shakar Darra (Sugar Pass) to reach Kalabagh on the Indus River. Kalabagh was once a busy port on the Indus River because of its location just where the Indus River emerges from the mountains to spread out across the plains of the Punjab. We’ll be taking an early evening boat ride to catch the old town in the setting sun.
Day 16, September 23 Kalabagh to Taunsa
This morning we travel about seven hours south to Taunsa, on the banks of the Indus River where we will camp near the village where our boat crews live. The Indus River began life in Tibet and finally flows into the Arabian Sea 2500km to the south. Ancient civilisations once lived along its banks and Alexander the Great sailed down it, quite possibly in boats of very similar style to the ones we will be using. Hopefully, well get to see our boats this evening.
Day 17, September 24 On the River Indus We’ll set out this morning to sail down one of the world’s great rivers. We’ll be moving at a gentle relaxed pace as the crews simply use the river current for propulsion! There’ll be plenty of opportunity to look for the rare and endangered blind Indus dolphin. This evening we’ll be camping on the river bank – sunsets and sunrises can be absolutely beautiful beside the river.
Day 18, September 25 On the River Indus to Ghazi Ghat
We’ll spend our second day slowly wending our way down the Indus River. During our day on the river we might also encounter some of the local people who live near the river and if we’re fortunate spot someone crossing the river using the age-old flotation device – an inflated animal skin. We plan to finish our cruise near Ghazi Ghat where we will camp. Sunset over the Indus River is almost always memorable.
Day 19, September 26 Ghazi Ghat to Uch
Today we drive east across the Punjab to Uch Sharif, which means High Holy Place. It’s possible Alexander the Great visited here but what is known with certainty is that by the 13 th century Uch was one of the subcontinent’s most important religious and cultural centres. It’s especially significant as a centre of Sufi teaching. There are superb monuments here, some in a rather picturesque stat of ruin, but fascinating none-the-less. We’ll be camping nearby overnight.
Day 20, September 27 Uch to Derawar Fort
Today we leave the margins of the fertile Punjab and head into the Cholistan Desert. This desert is actually an extension of India’s Thar Desert in Rajasthan – the largest desert in the Indian sub-continent. We’ll see the fort long before we arrive outside its walls. And we’ll be arriving in true desert style – on camels (alternative transport to our camping site is available for anyone not wishing to arrive on a ship of the desert!) The Derawar Fort is the best preserved of all Cholistan’s many military installations. It was built in 1733 and has 40 enormous bastions that stand more than 30m high. Although the interior is in ruins and is not open to the public, the exterior is extraordinarily well preserved and features a variety of intricate brickwork patterns. The marble mosque nearby is a miniature version of the Red Fort in Delhi.
Day 21, September 28 Derawar Fort to Lahore We will drive back to Lahore today driving through cotton producing areas and through busy towns as head north.
Day 22, September 29 Lahore to USA Welcome Home!
Introducing Your Tour Escorts
Jill Worrall has not only travelled extensively through Pakistan, she lived there for several months, working in a school for ex-pat workers’ children.
As a result of her four journeys there she has built up a network of close Pakistani friends and has become a Kiwi extra family member in several households! She knows the country well, is very comfortable in this quite different culture and can’t wait to introduce the very best of this underrated travel destination to others.
Jill has also travelled widely through the rest of South Asia, including two visits to India (three by the time we head for Pakistan), twice to Bhutan (again this will be three by the time we leave!), two trips to Sri Lanka and once to Nepal. She has also lost count of the number of times she’s visited Thailand, has travelled all over Australia from Darwin to Adelaide, Port Douglas to Perth and has driven coast to coast across the United States. She has also roamed around Europe by train and worked and travelled in Great Britain. More unconventionally she also visited East Timor, Bougainville and the Chatham Islands.
Now a freelance writer, editor and communications consultant, as well as part-time travel escort, Jill has had a 20-year-plus career in newspapers. She has won two Qantas Media Awards for feature writing and numerous other travel and feature writing awards, and has been the recipient of two Asia 2000 (now AsiaNZ) media travel scholarships.
Her first travel book, A Blonde in the Bazaar (about her travels in Pakistan) was runner-up in the WH Smith NZ Travel Book of the Year for 2003.
“I love taking people travelling with me and helping them explore new and different places.’’
Jill will be joined on this tour by Mujahid Ali Khan, who also features in her book. Mujahid is a Wakhi, a distinct ethnic group of people who live in the Karakorams. He’s the second generation of his family to be involved in the tourism industry - his father was a mountaineering guide who has climbed extensively in the Karakorams.
Mujahid has guided groups to just about every corner of Pakistan so is very knowledgeable about the country. He also speaks most of the main languages used in the country. Mujahid’s extended family (including his wife and two children) live in Passu but Mujahid is currently studying for an advanced tourism management and marketing diploma in England.
Linda has been travelling from a very young age, living on
4 continents and visiting 183 countries. " Pakistan has long been a favorite destination for my groups - they always want to return."
Tour price: land only; $4900 per person twin sharing
Single supplement: $550
Deposit: US $1000 non-refundable
* STOP PRESS: Our Pakistan tour operator has just notified us that he has been able to secure a performance with legendary Sufi drummer Pappu Saien. Pappu Saien is in great demand both in Pakistan and internationally but he and his entourage are going to perform especially for our group at the Derawar Fort in the Cholistan Desert. This will mean a small additional cost (we can’t make this an optional performance because it will be impossible not to hear it out in the desert!) But I can guarantee this will be a truly memorable experience and will also be combined with a farewell desert dinner. The extra cost is $35US per person and this will be collected from clients on arrival in Pakistan.
Inclusions:
All your meals while in Pakistan are included
All internal airport taxes are included
A full sightseeing programme in Pakistan, all transportation, and transfers.
Guaranteed share twin price for bookings made before….
The services of your tour escort Jill Worrall, and an additional English-speaking guide in Pakistan.
Complimentary copy of A Blonde in the Bazaar
What’s not included:
Airfare USA-Pakistan-return
Pakistan visa (and any other travel document costs)
Meals other than those stated in itinerary
Drinks with meals or at other times
Personal expenses such as laundry, phone calls, email etc
Travel insurance
Tips for Pakistani guides, drivers etc.
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